Corsa b project log 1.0

[johnny]

I personally hate the gsi interior, think the sri or sports look better and they have better support aswell

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[nathcarr]

That's fare mate, I do really like the Sri door cards but just not keen on the seats,


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[Rían P]

Nice find on the mudflaps Nath!

I don't mind the gsi interior, to be fair, all corsa b interiors, I find are actually pretty good, I like normal breeze seats.
My favorite is probably sri though.

Regarding, the clay, have you ever used it before? I could suggest a few tips, but if you've used it before there's no point in rambling on to you!

[nathcarr]

Nice find on the mudflaps Nath!

I don't mind the gsi interior, to be fair, all corsa b interiors, I find are actually pretty good, I like normal breeze seats.
My favorite is probably sri though.

Regarding, the clay, have you ever used it before? I could suggest a few tips, but if you've used it before there's no point in rambling on to you!

Cheers lad [emoji106] I just went in to get some it's and bobs and just asked on the off chance they do them and they could get them so I was pleased about that [emoji4].

I had breeze seats as standard and then the calibra ones which I do still like but I gave up looking for the rears, and these gsi ones came up at a good price, but I could do with finding a decent upholster because there is a little fag burn in one [emoji107][emoji107] but should be easy fixed.

I've only ever used a clay cloth before mate not a clay bar this will be my first time so any advice you have will be great [emoji4]

[Rían P]

Well you don't ask you don't get!

I don't blame you for giving up on the leathers, just too hard to find! Plus, gsi interior is quite rare as well, so good find!

Regarding the clay, you obviously know when to use it seeing you've used a clay cloth before but anyway:
Wash the car, then drying is optional (some say to leave the water on the car as it provides an extra bit of lubrication, I like to dry the car and just use detail spray as that way it's not being diluted, however that's just my opinion so it's probably not the best way). You'll want to work the clay into a pancake kind of shape, heating it in your hands will ease moulding. If the clay is too hard, take a measuring jug (or something similar) of hot water and place the clay in it, which will soften the clay for re kneading.

Once the car is washed and you've decided what to do (ie dry or leave), working in a small area, spray the panel with detailer, work the clay with little pressure, basically just use the weight of the clay. You'll feel the panel rough, but just glide the clay back and fourth, side to side (not in circles) over the surface until it feels smooth.
As you finish a panel, or begin to see the clay go brown with the removal of the bonded contaminants, remould the clay by folding to reveal a new clean side. Remove any residue left on the surface with a microfibre.

One thing you must do is keep the panel well lubricated. If you feel the clay drag, spray more QD.
Is the bar 100g? If so, I'd split it in half, or thirds, and work it like that. Bit more economical. NB!! If you drop a bit of clay, throw it away! Don't think you can salvage it because you'll only risk dragging dirt over the panel.

Some people suggest claying the windows first to take the harshness off the clay, however I would just use it on the paint initially.

Any marring that's caused by lack of lubrication or too much pressure should polish out. Claying I find, really enjoyable, quite therapeutic! Haha

When your clay bar is done ie very brown and can't find a clean surface so wouldn't be suitable for paint, don't throw it away, keep it for your wheels!

After claying, you could rewash to remove any remaining residue, however it's not necessary.
Finally, top with a drop of SRP and a wax and you'll be be able to shave in the reflections of your paint!!

[nathcarr]

Well you don't ask you don't get!

I don't blame you for giving up on the leathers, just too hard to find! Plus, gsi interior is quite rare as well, so good find!

Regarding the clay, you obviously know when to use it seeing you've used a clay cloth before but anyway:
Wash the car, then drying is optional (some say to leave the water on the car as it provides an extra bit of lubrication, I like to dry the car and just use detail spray as that way it's not being diluted, however that's just my opinion so it's probably not the best way). You'll want to work the clay into a pancake kind of shape, heating it in your hands will ease moulding. If the clay is too hard, take a measuring jug (or something similar) of hot water and place the clay in it, which will soften the clay for re kneading.

Once the car is washed and you've decided what to do (ie dry or leave), working in a small area, spray the panel with detailer, work the clay with little pressure, basically just use the weight of the clay. You'll feel the panel rough, but just glide the clay back and fourth, side to side (not in circles) over the surface until it feels smooth.
As you finish a panel, or begin to see the clay go brown with the removal of the bonded contaminants, remould the clay by folding to reveal a new clean side. Remove any residue left on the surface with a microfibre.

One thing you must do is keep the panel well lubricated. If you feel the clay drag, spray more QD.
Is the bar 100g? If so, I'd split it in half, or thirds, and work it like that. Bit more economical. NB!! If you drop a bit of clay, throw it away! Don't think you can salvage it because you'll only risk dragging dirt over the panel.

Some people suggest claying the windows first to take the harshness off the clay, however I would just use it on the paint initially.

Any marring that's caused by lack of lubrication or too much pressure should polish out. Claying I find, really enjoyable, quite therapeutic! Haha

When your clay bar is done ie very brown and can't find a clean surface so wouldn't be suitable for paint, don't throw it away, keep it for your wheels!

After claying, you could rewash to remove any remaining residue, however it's not necessary.
Finally, top with a drop of SRP and a wax and you'll be be able to shave in the reflections of your paint!!

Rían mate this detailed explanation is exactly what I needed, the little guide you get with the clay is useless, so thank you for taking the time to explain it to me, I'm just trying to get a dry day and a few hours I take it it's quite time consuming.

Just a couple of follow up questions, as a rough guide what kind of size piece of clay should I use?? And what happens if you do go around in circles with the clay?? I'm just curios so I know in my head that it's a big no no when claying??

Cheers again mate

[nathcarr]

Been on with swapping my interior over the last couple of days, now I got the gsi interior and the rear seats were on a split seat base so I swapped it all back over onto my original frame work which isn't split seat and that was a very easy job, whilst j had the frame out though everyone knows how bad the rear seat frame is for rusting, so I dressed it all up with some carpet and it looks a lot better now in my boot here's some pics





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[johnny]

You don't go in circles because it's near impossible to keep an equal light pressure and it increases the change of swirl marks or even scratches

I don't even go side to side I keep pulling the same direction in straight lines and if you come to a part that won't lift just keep going over it not back and forward and don't put more pressure on the clay, it's very useful stuff but if not used correctly it can cause alot of swirl marks or even scratches in the lacquer

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[Rían P]

Rían mate this detailed explanation is exactly what I needed, the little guide you get with the clay is useless, so thank you for taking the time to explain it to me, I'm just trying to get a dry day and a few hours I take it it's quite time consuming.

Just a couple of follow up questions, as a rough guide what kind of size piece of clay should I use?? And what happens if you do go around in circles with the clay?? I'm just curios so I know in my head that it's a big no no when claying??

Cheers again mate

Ah that's not a problem lad! I know what you mean re: instructions, they're usually not worth the paper they're wrote on. And you're very welcome hi! Sure that's what the forum is for, to help each other. I mightn't be much good regarding mechanicals, upholstery or painting, but I enjoy reading about detailing, as well as detailing the cars, so I've a bit of 'experience' of where I've went wrong in the past. Plus, you helped me greatly in the past about spraying those wheels which I am very grateful for! (i have one alloy in etch priner...yes it's taking me forever!)

Seeing as the clay bar is 100g, you could perhaps spilt the bar into either 2 or 3. I started off with Meguiars Clay, which I got 50g of it in a paint restoration kit. 50g was a good size, big enough to mould and not be too thin. You'll want to flatten the clay into a circular shape. If it was rectangular, 4cm by about 6cm would be alright.
There's no right or wrong size Nath. If you cut your original bar in either 2 or 3, just flatten the bit of clay and whatever shape or size it ends up, as long as it's flat like a pancake, it'll not matter of it's circular or rectangular.

As for why you don't go in circles, as Johnny rightly says, if you go in circles you run the risk or creating more swirls by dragging contaminants in circles. Straight lines are often more forgiving as the angle at which the sun hits the paint will bot show straight line swirls as much as circular ones. It is likely for some kind of clay marring to occuur, but if you maintain little to no pressure, spray plenty of QD, you should help minimise the marring.

If there's any major tar spots, I'd remove them with a tar remover beforehand, so as not to take them up in the clay. Some use Petrol, however that can swell the paint so I would avoid Petrol.

Hope that helps!

[nathcarr]

Really appreciate your advice lad and thanks for your advice too Johnny lad [emoji106] yeah I would never use petrol on tar mate we have a good tar remover at work so I'll use that if there is any major bits on. Just need a dry day now [emoji4]


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[nathcarr]

Been on with so much lately but finally got round to doing a little bit work in the new engine I got, fitted my first ever clutch today and I must say it was a doddle a lot easier than I thought it would be, had my bible (Haynes manual) to hand and my father in law was around to help if needed as well he gave me a line up with centralising the clutch and fitting the box back on.
And a mechanic was gonna charge me 370 quid to do that job that I done in an hour n half, I know I had my engine out which makes it a lot easier but still.
So old clutch


New clutch in

Old release bearing that has seen way better day

New release bearing




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[Nathcarr91]

So haven't posted anything up in a while now and didn't really wanna let the thread just phase out, I haven't really got much to update on because I haven't even had a spanner near the car for 5 weeks or so now, the weathers been too nice and I got a new bike and I've just been on with ride outs and playing about with the new bike and never looked at the car. However.......

I did take the car Upto my work the other day to fit anti roll bar bushes ready for mot, and as I was looking at the floor i noticed that both front jacking points are like paper and there is a whole on the driver side foot well about 2 inches wide just now but about 5 inches in width is all soft and it wouldn't take long with a screwdriver to get rid of all that, so was on a bit of a downer with that after all the work I've done on it and stuff, but I am gonna get it fixed though, not gonna be a 5 minute fix but while it's nice wether I'll use the bike and get car done before the winter,

Ideally my plans are to get the interior stripped out which is almost done get the carpet all lifted and stored away and start cutting its gonna need front sections of the sills put in really but I'm just gonna put 2 full sill sections in probably an inner aswell cut the floor out on drivers side until I get something to weld to, make a sections for there and weld that it and I'm probably just gonna get some box section for them plated bits on the front and weld them in and get it all painted up, could do with a back panel in aswell but I'm not too conserned about that it's an easy job and it will hold out just now

Will get some pictures up of the damage when I make a start and keep everyone posted
Cheers lads
Nathan

[johnny]

sucks about the rust mate, they all seem to go at the front of the sills, floor is an easy fix as far as rust repair goes lol

[Rían P]

The rust is the devil Nath! And unfortunately it seems all b's are prone to it.

Keep the head up though and soldier on, sure if anything, it'll keep you busy in the winter time!

Make sure and get plenty of photos of the progress, and even if you could give a few tips on welding/cutting that'd be brilliant?!?

Hope the wee car goes easy on you Nath and the underside will just be as mint as the top side again!

Take er easy,
Rían P

[Nathcarr91]

Yeah like you say Johnny that seems to be the killer of must Bs that are still kicking about, and your right there Rían mate it is the devil!!

Hopefully gonna get a start on with repairing in the next couple of weeks so will definitely get plenty of pictures up for you mate and will list my methods of repairs aswell as a go along for you, it's been a while since I do any kind of repair like that because been a painter for so long now, started off panel beater and got my qualifications and then went on to paint, so gonna have to pull some old skills out the vault for it haha.

Cheers man hopefully it will be because I've done so much to the outer I can't let it go because of a rusty floor hate getting beat haha,

Speak again guys
Nath