1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
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- skidmarks
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1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
Hi there I was wondering if anyone can help.
I currently have a 1994 1.4 8v SRi, I have just purchased a 1998 x14xe. I have been told the newer engine has an imobiliser fitted within the ecu (it also need a chipped key & transponer).
With the new engine I got the wiring loom and ecu. Will the engine run if just change the engine loom & ecu or will I have to change the main loom to add the transponder to it (this would mean getting hold of new key/transponder/ecu) as my existing loom does not have the transponder wired in.
Any help would be appreciated
Cheers
Mark
I currently have a 1994 1.4 8v SRi, I have just purchased a 1998 x14xe. I have been told the newer engine has an imobiliser fitted within the ecu (it also need a chipped key & transponer).
With the new engine I got the wiring loom and ecu. Will the engine run if just change the engine loom & ecu or will I have to change the main loom to add the transponder to it (this would mean getting hold of new key/transponder/ecu) as my existing loom does not have the transponder wired in.
Any help would be appreciated
Cheers
Mark
[i]Its not what you drive.......its how sideways you get it[/i]
- jarjar
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
its a waste of time asking questions like that on here fella if the question doesn't involve painting your wheels of of fiting poo plastic bits most people on here are clueless or just cant be arsed to answer . if you read thro some of the project logs you will see who is worth asking and who is not
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
PMSLjarjar wrote:its a waste of time asking questions like that on here fella if the question doesn't involve painting your wheels of of fiting poo plastic bits most people on here are clueless or just cant be arsed to answer . if you read thro some of the project logs you will see who is worth asking and who is not
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
all engines after 1995 have built in immobilisers, so yes you will need chip and transponder for the engine to run.
as for wiring a transponder I don't know whats involed but I'm sure it can't be too difficult to pull that bit of wiring off another car and wire it into yours.
If you do not have the chip and transponder that matches your ECU then its gonna be expensive to get vaux to make you a new chip and transponder it would be better to go down the scrap and get a new ECU with transponder and chip.
as for wiring a transponder I don't know whats involed but I'm sure it can't be too difficult to pull that bit of wiring off another car and wire it into yours.
If you do not have the chip and transponder that matches your ECU then its gonna be expensive to get vaux to make you a new chip and transponder it would be better to go down the scrap and get a new ECU with transponder and chip.
- skidmarks
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
Cheers Hayden,
Why does the ECU have to be coded to the Transponder? From my investigations so far this part does not make sense....but any info you have may help.
I have unpicked the transponder wiring from a loom in a scrappies and it looks pretty simple Only 7 cables and 3 off look like power/switched power/earth. I have also opened up a transponder unit and it looks like all the 12v switching is done within the transponder unit (basically putting 12v onto the ECU allowing it to start the engine) rather than sending the key code into the ECU for it switch. Given the age of the car/loom/design it seems unlikely that any of the cables are used for coms as the cable to the ECU is within a loom that transmits various other power supplies.
The easy way for the designers to add vehicle security to an existing design would to interupt a feed to the ECU, drop in the transponder unit, once the correct key is inserted the transponder switch's 12v forward to the ECU and hey presto!!! No key, no go..... It would also save the need to re-design/re-work the already used/in-production ECU's.
This leaves me asking the question do I need to do anything at all? If the 12v supply is going to the ECU, neither is there any code going to the ECU, then technically it should just plug in and start
Why does the ECU have to be coded to the Transponder? From my investigations so far this part does not make sense....but any info you have may help.
I have unpicked the transponder wiring from a loom in a scrappies and it looks pretty simple Only 7 cables and 3 off look like power/switched power/earth. I have also opened up a transponder unit and it looks like all the 12v switching is done within the transponder unit (basically putting 12v onto the ECU allowing it to start the engine) rather than sending the key code into the ECU for it switch. Given the age of the car/loom/design it seems unlikely that any of the cables are used for coms as the cable to the ECU is within a loom that transmits various other power supplies.
The easy way for the designers to add vehicle security to an existing design would to interupt a feed to the ECU, drop in the transponder unit, once the correct key is inserted the transponder switch's 12v forward to the ECU and hey presto!!! No key, no go..... It would also save the need to re-design/re-work the already used/in-production ECU's.
This leaves me asking the question do I need to do anything at all? If the 12v supply is going to the ECU, neither is there any code going to the ECU, then technically it should just plug in and start
[i]Its not what you drive.......its how sideways you get it[/i]
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
You have thought about this alot more than what I have, heres what I know
The chip, transponder and ECU are all coded and must match to work
If you have one of these wrong then the enigne will turn over but you won't get fuel or a spark and the ECU light on the dash flashes rapidly.
The immobiliser can be disiabled using a tech 2 handheld computer thing there are some companies on the internet that will do it if you post it to them.
The chip, transponder and ECU are all coded and must match to work
If you have one of these wrong then the enigne will turn over but you won't get fuel or a spark and the ECU light on the dash flashes rapidly.
The immobiliser can be disiabled using a tech 2 handheld computer thing there are some companies on the internet that will do it if you post it to them.
- skidmarks
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
Hayden, where did you get this info? how substansial is it? I have just been down to my local dealer and tried to pick thier brains they don't what to do other than use the machine to do it.......haydn1987 wrote: The chip, transponder and ECU are all coded and must match to work.
Can you give me any idea of who please, I could do with talking to themhaydn1987 wrote: The immobiliser can be disiabled using a tech 2 handheld computer thing there are some companies on the internet that will do it if you post it to them.
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
Ive found a few posts on http://www.migweb.co.uk its a great website for people who like to play with thier vauxhalls you would get a better answer if you post on there.
This guy seems to be doing the same conversion as you, if you register to the website you can send him a message and ask him how he got on with the conversion.
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/other-me ... oblem.html
Here is another post that is asking the same question
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/engines- ... r-key.html
I found this guy on ebay who should be able to reprogram any transponder and chip to match your ECU
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-ECU-PROG ... 5001r17057
This guy seems to be doing the same conversion as you, if you register to the website you can send him a message and ask him how he got on with the conversion.
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/other-me ... oblem.html
Here is another post that is asking the same question
http://www.migweb.co.uk/forums/engines- ... r-key.html
I found this guy on ebay who should be able to reprogram any transponder and chip to match your ECU
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-ECU-PROG ... 5001r17057
- skidmarks
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
Cheers Fella,
I'm going to try me theory tomorrow night with the engine next to the car on the floor, if I get a spark and the fuel pump works then I will give it a go if not I think ECUS to go will be getting a call Thurday
Thanks for your help
I'm going to try me theory tomorrow night with the engine next to the car on the floor, if I get a spark and the fuel pump works then I will give it a go if not I think ECUS to go will be getting a call Thurday
Thanks for your help
[i]Its not what you drive.......its how sideways you get it[/i]
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
yea the chip, transponder and ECU are all unique to each other...thats what makes it an individual immobiliser. The engine loom for the 16v will connect up to what you have now in the car...so thats not a problem. its just getting either a non-immobilised ECU off an early vehicle or getting and ECU etc that all match.
its not just the wiring though, the front mount on the engine is different too. you will need a type 2 16v mount. these sit into the chassis rather than on it like the 8v one. not hard to find, you will again, possibly have to route round at the scrap yard.
Its a good engine...so you made a good choice, but make sure you have gone over everything before it goes in, as its a bugger to get things sorted when the engines halfway and you need things.
if you need any info, PM me and i should be able to give you a hand.
its not just the wiring though, the front mount on the engine is different too. you will need a type 2 16v mount. these sit into the chassis rather than on it like the 8v one. not hard to find, you will again, possibly have to route round at the scrap yard.
Its a good engine...so you made a good choice, but make sure you have gone over everything before it goes in, as its a bugger to get things sorted when the engines halfway and you need things.
if you need any info, PM me and i should be able to give you a hand.
- skidmarks
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
Cheers Gents for your help, spoke with ECU's to go today and they put me onto another Co..ECU technologies at Stoke, the guy there confirmed that my ECU cannot be de-imobilised (certain ones can) and code is sent into the main processor within.
Ta for this, I must admit I had already spotted it. Apparantly these engine mounts are weak (designed to shear in an accident) so I have already had it strengthened & welded to take a bit more of a beatingChrex wrote:its not just the wiring though, the front mount on the engine is different too. you will need a type 2 16v mount. these sit into the chassis rather than on it like the 8v one. not hard to find, you will again, possibly have to route round at the scrap yard.
Wanted, early non imobilised ECU for 1.4 16v Corsa.....cash waitingChrex wrote: its just getting either a non-immobilised ECU off an early vehicle
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- skidmarks
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
Whey hey, got one, brand new and genuine Vauxhall too
Looks like i'm nearly there.
Thanks folks
Looks like i'm nearly there.
Thanks folks
[i]Its not what you drive.......its how sideways you get it[/i]
- skidmarks
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
Captins log suplimental....
Ended up buying a 14.16v sport MOT failure, had to swap the whole loom, steering column and header tank and finally got the damn thing running only for the t!a* to drop a valve.
Swapped the engine for the one out of the MOT failure, nearly complete and hoping to MOT the car tomorrow or Saturday. It better go alot better than the 8v otherwise I think there will be a 'John Cleese' moment or two.
So far has it been worth it..........NO buy a 16v
Ended up buying a 14.16v sport MOT failure, had to swap the whole loom, steering column and header tank and finally got the damn thing running only for the t!a* to drop a valve.
Swapped the engine for the one out of the MOT failure, nearly complete and hoping to MOT the car tomorrow or Saturday. It better go alot better than the 8v otherwise I think there will be a 'John Cleese' moment or two.
So far has it been worth it..........NO buy a 16v
[i]Its not what you drive.......its how sideways you get it[/i]
- skidmarks
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Re: 1.4 8v to 1.4 16v
Finally got it finished
All running nearly perfect now, de-cated the exhaust which made alot of difference. Whilst the engine & box were out I changed the standard 3.74 final drive for a 4.18 (from a Nova SR I think), makes a BIG difference to the acceleration Done a rally in the car, picked up a 4th o/a so cant be to bad
Only problem now seems to be that the engine breathes very heavily and cloggs up the air idle control valve and causes idle problems every few hundred miles!!!
Needless to say I have a very good 1.4 8v for sale complete with everyting to do a conversion. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :MESELX:IT
Also a decent parcel shelf, un-damaged and un-cut http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :MESELX:IT
Anyone interest please give me a shout.
All running nearly perfect now, de-cated the exhaust which made alot of difference. Whilst the engine & box were out I changed the standard 3.74 final drive for a 4.18 (from a Nova SR I think), makes a BIG difference to the acceleration Done a rally in the car, picked up a 4th o/a so cant be to bad
Only problem now seems to be that the engine breathes very heavily and cloggs up the air idle control valve and causes idle problems every few hundred miles!!!
Needless to say I have a very good 1.4 8v for sale complete with everyting to do a conversion. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :MESELX:IT
Also a decent parcel shelf, un-damaged and un-cut http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :MESELX:IT
Anyone interest please give me a shout.
[i]Its not what you drive.......its how sideways you get it[/i]