Corsa-B.uk - Vauxhall, Opel and Holden Corsa B Owners Club

johnny wrote:Yeah when I get a chance I'll stop at a scrappy and pick one up, could be next week though

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nathcarr wrote:

Glad your keeping well mate [emoji106] shame to hear about your accident tho buddy [emoji107]least your ok tho car is repairable [emoji4]

As far as doing the wheels mate, you can make it as easy or as complicated as you want, me I go easy haha because info them all day and I just want them done and out the way so here is my step by step list for you,

clean the wheels down best you can, ideally you want some decent acid alloy wheel cleaner however that auto glym clean wheels will work [emoji106]

Once that's done I would literally attack the wheel with 180grit if there really bad and then grade down to 320grit. Or just 320 every part of the wheel possible, this will sand the flaking paint away nicely as well as remove any light curbing without the need of filler asking as you keep the sander flat on the edge.

One. That's done quick blow off and just use a 2k stopper/filler (doesn't need to be any liquid alloy filler or anything, it's just a gimmick if I'm being honest) and then Let that dry followed by a rub down with a 320 ideally. Do it wet if it doesn't seem to be rubbing down well

Once all prepped mask up any areas you need to I.e the back if your not doing them or have already done them, and then you want to use a nice solvent degreaser, you can get this from any panel factors, tac rag, then an etch primer ( halfords sell a upol one called acid 8 in a red tin) [emoji108] does the job, you just need a sniff of that just a nice light coat to cover the bare alloy,

Then after that has dry shouldn't take long, then follow with at least 3-4 good coats of filler primer, you want everything covered, if it seems covered in 2 then leave it at 2 but I normally have 3 coats on and that a proper 2pac primer. As for drying times on that it would be hard to say because I bake mine at 70 degrees in a booth so it only take half an hour, just keep checking on but if you have an infrared lamp kicking about that would speed it up.

(Once high build is on you want to get any black aerosol and literally just put a dusting of that on this is so you know when it's flatted because the black is gone and the black sits in any scratches or chips.

Once that is dry I would then flat that with 800 wet followed by a re mask because you want fresh masking on to stop dust getting in your paint, another panel wipe down, tac rag, then paint,

You are right by starting off with a light coat to mak sure noting reacts and it needs that light coat as a grip coat for the 2nd and 3rd coats.
Just make sure you give it a good 10-20mins between each coat and never blow it dry because it skins over and stays soft with it being solvent based, water based is different
Tac rag off before clearcoat but this must be dry before you do that otherwise you will mark the paint.

As for lacquer I wouldn't recommend aerosol but I understand that not everyone has the option of 2pac or a compressor and spray gone to hand, plus aerosol is thin I have ceramic clearcoat on mine which is scratch resistant, so just make sure you put plenty on, with enough times between coats and you shouldn't need to flat that afterwords with 1500 and polish up I never do, but I paint mine in a spray booth so they stay clean
But if you do I would go with 2000grit instead and then polished up, and auto glym to a very very good alloy wheel seal in an aerosol, just spray and wipe [emoji108]

I hope this helps bud I know it probably seems longer than what you he put but I tried to be really detailed for you if there is anything else you need to know bud just give as a shout

Take it easy buddy speak to you soon [emoji106]

nathcarr wrote:
How far up north at you buddy I'm in Carlisle if your close I could do your wheels for you [emoji106]


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Rían P wrote:

nathcarr wrote:
How far up north at you buddy I'm in Carlisle if your close I could do your wheels for you [emoji106]


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Wow! Thanks for the offer Nath but when I said the 'North', I was referring to Northern Ireland, after Stance and Johnny, being from the 'South' - Rep of Ireland, said about a grill. As you probably know, Vauxhall is mainly NI whilst ROI is mainly Opel.

It would've been brilliant if you could have done them, would rather pay you to do them than some of the rogues over here lol

Rían P wrote:

nathcarr wrote:

Glad your keeping well mate [emoji106] shame to hear about your accident tho buddy [emoji107]least your ok tho car is repairable [emoji4]

As far as doing the wheels mate, you can make it as easy or as complicated as you want, me I go easy haha because info them all day and I just want them done and out the way so here is my step by step list for you,

clean the wheels down best you can, ideally you want some decent acid alloy wheel cleaner however that auto glym clean wheels will work [emoji106]

Once that's done I would literally attack the wheel with 180grit if there really bad and then grade down to 320grit. Or just 320 every part of the wheel possible, this will sand the flaking paint away nicely as well as remove any light curbing without the need of filler asking as you keep the sander flat on the edge.

One. That's done quick blow off and just use a 2k stopper/filler (doesn't need to be any liquid alloy filler or anything, it's just a gimmick if I'm being honest) and then Let that dry followed by a rub down with a 320 ideally. Do it wet if it doesn't seem to be rubbing down well

Once all prepped mask up any areas you need to I.e the back if your not doing them or have already done them, and then you want to use a nice solvent degreaser, you can get this from any panel factors, tac rag, then an etch primer ( halfords sell a upol one called acid 8 in a red tin) [emoji108] does the job, you just need a sniff of that just a nice light coat to cover the bare alloy,

Then after that has dry shouldn't take long, then follow with at least 3-4 good coats of filler primer, you want everything covered, if it seems covered in 2 then leave it at 2 but I normally have 3 coats on and that a proper 2pac primer. As for drying times on that it would be hard to say because I bake mine at 70 degrees in a booth so it only take half an hour, just keep checking on but if you have an infrared lamp kicking about that would speed it up.

(Once high build is on you want to get any black aerosol and literally just put a dusting of that on this is so you know when it's flatted because the black is gone and the black sits in any scratches or chips.

Once that is dry I would then flat that with 800 wet followed by a re mask because you want fresh masking on to stop dust getting in your paint, another panel wipe down, tac rag, then paint,

You are right by starting off with a light coat to mak sure noting reacts and it needs that light coat as a grip coat for the 2nd and 3rd coats.
Just make sure you give it a good 10-20mins between each coat and never blow it dry because it skins over and stays soft with it being solvent based, water based is different
Tac rag off before clearcoat but this must be dry before you do that otherwise you will mark the paint.

As for lacquer I wouldn't recommend aerosol but I understand that not everyone has the option of 2pac or a compressor and spray gone to hand, plus aerosol is thin I have ceramic clearcoat on mine which is scratch resistant, so just make sure you put plenty on, with enough times between coats and you shouldn't need to flat that afterwords with 1500 and polish up I never do, but I paint mine in a spray booth so they stay clean
But if you do I would go with 2000grit instead and then polished up, and auto glym to a very very good alloy wheel seal in an aerosol, just spray and wipe [emoji108]

I hope this helps bud I know it probably seems longer than what you he put but I tried to be really detailed for you if there is anything else you need to know bud just give as a shout

Take it easy buddy speak to you soon [emoji106]

Well as you say the car's easily repairable. Tin is easy replaced unlike life!

Anyway, thank you so much Nath lad for your response! I don't blame you for choosing the easy way, it seems a long process haha

You've went in to serious detail there! It's great to have a professional painter as a mate! I'm going to print that all off and keep it beside me when painting as it's almost impossible to find a guide that talks about every step in such detail.

Just one question, how long do I need to leave the primer before spraying a base coat on top, and then the same for spraying lacquer on? I know because you bake the paint it might be different but I've heard people say leave the primer 24hrs to dry before a base coat, and the same before a lacquer.

Also, would I be better with filler primer or would my grey primer do?

Again Nath, thank you so much lad for the help here. As I said, I've not done much painting before so some expert advice is invaluable.

Thanks lad,
Rían P

nathcarr wrote:
Any time mate I'm always happy to help [emoji106] like you say as well its good to have a painter as a mate because some of these people on you tube are just DIY that have learnt from there dad or done some stuff before with there mates and call them selves Chip Foose (famous American painter) where as I've done this for nearly 8 years professionally.

If you want mate I don't mind typing a step by step process with more detail up for you including a list of materials, and email it you if want??
Yeah I would use filler primer mate especially if your gonna put filler in the grey primer will be perfect for bits that you may have rubbed through the primer and need to put a little but on before your colour

I would maybe say leave your primer at least 8 hours before you start flattening it, what I would recommend doing is getting a little piece of scrap metal, and putting a coat of primer on it everytime you put a coat on the wheels, then what you can do with that is keep checking that because if that's dry your wheels will be too if that makes sense, because then you won't keep putting thumb prints in your wheels haha,

Once it feels dry try a bit of 800 wet of the test piece of metal if it flats ok without clogging the paper up or the primer "rolling off" as I call it then your good to go with the wheels [emoji106] but like I say at least 6-8 hours should be enough I would imagine if your in your shed or garage just get a little heater in to warm it up will cure quicker.

Then as far as base and clear I would say light coat on first leave it for 5 mins then put a 2nd coat on nice and covered, leave for 10-30 mins same with a 3rd, and the if it needs it I would put a very nice light mist coat over the top if your doing it silver, we call it a drop coat it just makes the metallic sit nice and flat and takes any patchyness out and then after that give it 10 and lacquer it right away, but just build your lacquer up with a coat at a time until you have a decent build and nice glossy finish

So it should take Upto if not just more than an hour to base it up and the lacquer it right after don't leave it 24 hours or anything before applying it because what that does is make the basecoat to dry and it the lacquer won't adhere to the base because the base is cured
Hope all this helps buddy [emoji106]






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stanc3w0rks wrote:Johnny is technically from R.O.I but IMO Donegal is pretty much northern Ireland[emoji14]haha

Chip Foose, what a guy!

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johnny wrote: Just jelous because I have choice of both[emoji38]

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