Fault code/won't start

[bazbug]

Removed the ICV again over the weekend replaced it and left the battery off overnight, tried again the following day, the idle speed had returned to normal but it still cuts out after 10 minutes or so...or as it would seem once running temperature has been reached, the fan does not kick in, it does not overheat...I'm wondering if some sort overheat protection is kicking in...not even sure of it has that kind of protection....but as it all always happens after 10 mins or so and it has reached a certain temperature then it shuts down. I'm hoping today to get a lend of a fault code reader from a workmate...which I hope will shed some light on the issue.

[bazbug]

Code reader not compatible, nor is the paper clip test..or MFD trick.
I've just took it out again to confirm all the symptoms, started lovely from cold.....drove it for 5 mins, parked up on a hill...ran it at higher than normal idle speed for 10 minutes, to get the engine at normal working temperature...continued to run it a higher than normal idle speed (kept my foot on the throttle pedal an 1" or so) then let it idle at normal speed...it cut out straight away...let the car coast down the hill and bumped it in 2nd gear..it needed a bit of speed for it to catch...but the engine did start...tried this 2 or 3 times going up and down the hill to confirm what was happening....car does not seem to be overheating any.
Can anybody tell me what the crankshaft sensor's job is?

[Mike_Parr]

The crank sensor is used to monitor the rotational speed of the crankshaft. (The crankshaft is the "rod" connected to the fly wheel to control the pistons) The sensor is also used to monitor the relation between the pistons and the valves in the engine.

When it fails, there is a small chance the engine will start (engine will likely cut out after a few minutes of driving) but it mostly will not start.

Hope this helps,


Mike.

[bazbug]

Cheers Mike...I was beginning to think it might be temp related...so I ran it with the temp guage sender wire removed but it still cuts out at normal working temp, after starting fine from cold....I'm beginning to convince myself it's the ICV....even though I've removed it and cleaned it...going to acquire one of these and try that. I've also removed the MAF...no difference....took out the camshaft sensor and cleaned it...no difference.

[Mike_Parr]

Did you clean the Crank sensor awsell?

and no problem mate, any time

[bazbug]

Not yet...but if I get out of bed in time tomorrow i'll remove it (nightshift tonight) and clean that....I'll need to replace the '0' ring if i do remove that.

[bazbug]

Update on my woes....it's sorted, changed the crank sensor this morning with one I scavenged from a breakers yard, and it now gets up to normal temperature and idles without cutting out. Many thanks to all on here who offered guidance and advice, in particular Mike_Parr and Octane97...I think I've got them names right.

Thanks

Baz

ps, having researched this problem and read other forums, this seems to be a really common and annoying fault on Corsa B's, maybe it could made a sticky, I'd be happy to help with that.

[Mike_Parr]

Ah, no problem mate, just a shame we couldn't of sorted the problem sooner,

Yours,


Mike.

p.s. have yourself a beer

[scotsvampyr]

ok having read these posts i am wondering if its the same sort of problem i have when i go to start my car it turns but wont start for ages at the same point i have clicking in the fuses on the left hand side footwell behind the glove box but after 3 or 4 mins it starts but when driving its fine, once warm starts on the first few turns of the engine

now would this be caused by camshaft sensor , crank sensor , maf sensor , icv , or any other sort of valve sensor going to the motor factors on monday so would hopefully have an answer to this by then

cheers william