Corsa-B.uk - Vauxhall, Opel and Holden Corsa B Owners Club

Should be getting the car back at the weekend.

Fixed or fed up with current mech?

Hopefully back in running order
Should also have the 2 litre cavlar brakes on them.
Also should have the coilovers on the front and lowering springs. But was told the rear shocks didn't fit.
Don't understand u why. I can always get new rear shocks just hope the rest of its lowered. And hope the new brakes are more responsive. I've a few odd mods to do when it's back home like fitting genuine fog light switches for front and rear fitting new fog light bulbs and I finally want to do fit the citron mist jets

Got car back today. Damm its stiff and old after driving two modern cards for the past 6 weeks or more.
Drove a good 30 mins at 60/70 mph and she didn't cut out so think that's the problem finally fixed up.

Mechanic said he had fitted the suspension but that it all had to be taken back out cause the wheels wouldn't turn, kept hitting the struts / top of the coil over at the front. and that the back shocks didn't fit. also that because it was a cheap kit it would have been really stiff. That i should have invested in a good £500 set with dampener adjustments etc so that its low and comfortable.

Also said that the brakes would have been a good upgrade but that i need the front Alloys back on the car first and all the brake lines would need upgraded.

Water bottle pump doesn't seem to work anymore so either bad wire or the fuse has gone, when he was looking for faults in the wires. this will need fixed before MOT.

Really pleased with the handbrake really nice and firm now and no wiggle play when its lowered so the handbrake light doesn't flick on and off anymore like before.

Il maybe try and do some of the minor mods i wanted to do in the morning and get it back into a shape.

Well,

Do i need to replace the brake lines if i fit 2.0 liter Calibra brakes ?

Ive been told that i do. but reading it online it says they bolt straight on.

Unless you want to go with breaded lines or the current lines are rusted/perished you don't need to change them

johnny wrote:Unless you want to go with breaded lines or the current lines are rusted/perished you don't need to change them

Cheers johnny, mechanic told me he couldnt fit them cause i needed new lines. he prob just wanted rid of the car from his yard.
I managed to get red braided hose lines that run to the calipers. But i dont want to have to replace the full set of brake lines.

Il attempt to fit them and see if they will work. Some Solid brake dics just arrived in the post as well so if i cant fit the 2 liter ones i can always put the new solid standard brake discs on and get it ready for MOT.

Just got a set of HI TEC ones.

Traded in the 1.4 , 2008 Auris and got this...

1.6 , 2010 Auris SR

Always liked the auris, had a run in a 1.6 turbo a few years back and was impressed with how comfortable it drove with a sports pack

Wee corsa cut out again on me and wouldnt start back up straight away. Had to let it sit for 5 mins.
I'm at a loose end as I just took it out to get 2 new tires fitted at £100.

I'm real on the verge of packing it in and getting something reliable.

What else could be causing it to cut out ?

It's had a new fuel pump and relay fitted
I'm told the cam shaft and crankshaft sensors replaced
I've been told wires have been check to the best of mechanics ability but he's not an auto electrical mechanic.

Could it be one of these ..

Coilpack
Spark plugs
Battery
Bad earth
Fuel filter


Logically I can't think what else would be causing it to cut out and fire back up after sitting.

I'd change the crank sensor again for a genuine gm part, do it yourself if possible there only like 20 quid from autovaux and it's handy to have them spare

Id put 20 quid on it being the crank sensor, nothing else would cause it and not throw a code

johnny wrote:I'd change the crank sensor again for a genuine gm part, do it yourself if possible there only like 20 quid from autovaux and it's handy to have them spare

Id put 20 quid on it being the crank sensor, nothing else would cause it and not throw a code

Emailed Autovaux to get me a genuine one. and il give it a try myself. i replaced it before a year or more ago with aftermarket. i would be really pissed if i find out it wasnt replaced when i left it in.

Used a multi meter to test windscreen washer pump. the wire got 12 volts, but the pump was fried. it was a cheap after market one as well from ebay.

Spent some time working on the lights today.

My Passenger Fog Light had stopped working a long time ago and i never spent the time to really sit and figure it out untill today.
Used a multi meter to check breaks in the lines and double checked the connectors and bad earth points.
Also Replaced out the bulbs for a set of Night Breakers ones.

I think the problem was a bad corroded earth point.
I didn't realise i had fixed it until i was about to give up. turns out all my trail and error and letting the bulb hang loose was pointless. the blub had to be mounted back into the fog holder for it to complete the circuit.

While i was at it i also swapped out the standard headlights with some Smoked Depo's

Just to chuck in - the crank sensor is basically just an electro-magnet. A small fracture in the winding opens up when hot and closes again when cold. Which is why they tend to fail when hot and won't restart until it has cooled down again.

A simple check is to look for fuel pressure at the rail. When you turn the ignition on (before cranking) the fuel pump relay should be activated by the ECU and give a priming run (only a second or two). So there should be fuel pressure before cranking. Then when you crank the engine the crank sensor tells the ECU the engine is turning and it re-activates the fuel pump relay. If the crank sensor fails the fuel pump relay isn't re-activated. So fuel pressure before cranking but none after is nearly always the crank sensor.

taurus wrote:Just to chuck in - the crank sensor is basically just an electro-magnet. A small fracture in the winding opens up when hot and closes again when cold. Which is why they tend to fail when hot and won't restart until it has cooled down again.

A simple check is to look for fuel pressure at the rail. When you turn the ignition on (before cranking) the fuel pump relay should be activated by the ECU and give a priming run (only a second or two). So there should be fuel pressure before cranking. Then when you crank the engine the crank sensor tells the ECU the engine is turning and it re-activates the fuel pump relay. If the crank sensor fails the fuel pump relay isn't re-activated. So fuel pressure before cranking but none after is nearly always the crank sensor.

Yea just really frustrating cause when i first left it in i thought i blew an oil seal and thought it will be quicker if i leave it into a professional, but i also asked mechanic to try to change the Crankshaft sensor.
He must not have changed it at all.