Corsa-B.uk - Vauxhall, Opel and Holden Corsa B Owners Club

My car started playing up a bit on the way to work earlier and the engine management light flashed on and off a few times . It started when the car juddered for a second as i was slowing down for a roundabout (braking and changing down a gear)... I thought it was going to stall while still moving! It drove perfectly fine on the way back from work, but the EML still flashed a couple of times (stayed on for about 5 seconds at one point, but it's usually a second or two).

Here's what i've noticed after driving around today:

1. The idle speed increased a couple of times when parked (EML comes on), so i had to tap the throttle to get it back to normal, then the EML goes out.
2. The EML will sometimes come on when i release the throttle or change down a gear when slowing the car.
3. My engine has revved quite high a couple of times just by pressing down on the clutch (when changing gear with throttle fully released)... The EML doesn't come on when it does this.
4. The car will occasionally hesitate to pull away after idling for a few minutes when the engine is hot, but the EML doesn't come on when it does this.
5. I have a slightly rattly timing chain, but it's not that bad (i've heard worse).

It's a 1999 1.2 16V SXi (X12XE i believe) and has just hit 70k miles on the clock.

I'll take it to my local garage and see if they can check the codes... Hopefully it's nothing serious or expensive! I'm guessing it could be the ICV, but can't be too sure. It's probably about time i changed the sparks and cleaned out the EGR valve and throttle body too. I'm supposed to be driving from Blackpool to Southampton and back next month in this thing .

Save yourself a few pence and do a paperclip test

http://www.corsa-b.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... 05&t=11231

Also, try giving the ICV a clean depending on the codes you get.

http://www.corsa-b.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... 05&t=13412

PaulW wrote:Save yourself a few pence and do a paperclip test

http://www.corsa-b.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... 05&t=11231

Also, try giving the ICV a clean depending on the codes you get.

http://www.corsa-b.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... 05&t=13412

Thanks for the suggestions, although it says the paperclip test won't work with a 1.2 16V X12XE engine ... Is it worth a try anyway? Or will i damage something?

I'll see how much it'll cost to get the codes read at a local garage and i'll also clean out the throttle body, EGR valve and ICV when i get the chance (and when it's not p*ssing it down outside!). I've opened up a Corsa ICV before and it really is a cheap and nasty bit of kit considering the high price tag!

It wont damage anything and it does work just can give non exsistant codes somtimes lol

Code reading shouldnt be more than £20

To check icv leave car idling for 10-15 mins, eml should come on, if it doesnt it doesnt mean its not tthe icv.

Egr is find a steapish hill and drive up it in 3rd, not flooring it now and the eml will come on again, but again this isnt a conclusive test

The ICV is definitely dodgy as the revs started bouncing up and down erratically when idling (first time i've seen that happen with this car). The car goes up hills with no issues but the EML still flashes at random and doesn't seem to affect anything while driving.

Anyway, i've got it booked in tomorrow for a diagnostic check and alternator belt replacement (it's looking a bit weathered/perished)... £35 all in which isn't bad at all .

Yeah revs bouncing is definitly dud icv, try cleaning as said but they dont always take to a cleaning, makes them worse sometmes lol,

Egr only really gives bother going uphill so id say yours is fine, and its prob just the icv

Is it worth blanking off the EGR valve while i'm at it? Would this cause the EML to stay on? And will it affect fuel consumption?

Cheers

May aswell it will increase emissions and decrease mpg but so slightly you wont notice, id guess around 90% of corsas have it blanked off

As long as its pluged in it wont put the eml on

Got back from the garage and the diagnostic computer came up with 'Idle Air Control Valve - Low Voltage'... I think i'll just buy a cheap replacement instead of messing around taking the old one apart (the metal bit sticking out has rusted quite a bit anyway). Changing the alternator belt was a nightmare as the engine mount refused to budge to begin with! We eventually made a big enough gap using sheer brute force to slip the belt through (still had to remove the top pulley though)... Lots of p*ssing about just to change an alternator belt .

I was advised not to blank off the EGR as it's also part of the cooling system (which i didn't know)... The mechanic says most people don't have any issues blanking it off until they start doing long motorway trips... Does it get completely blanked? I'm sure i've seen some blanking plates with a hole (for the coolant to pass through i assume?).

Buy cheap buy twice, if you are buying cheap its worth trying one from a scrappy first,

As for the egr, you dont block the water part of it, if you did you be in trouble, but i had mine blanked off for around 10000 miles with.no problem

johnny wrote:Buy cheap buy twice, if you are buying cheap its worth trying one from a scrappy first,

As for the egr, you dont block the water part of it, if you did you be in trouble, but i had mine blanked off for around 10000 miles with.no problem

Are the cheap ones really that bad? There appears to be nothing to them... Mine is made by Bosch (part 0132008602) and it's using a basic stepper motor which is probably manufactured in China, a large cog, spindle and a couple of contact points. I'll check the EGR valve condition when i get the chance and maybe blank it off, but the mpg isn't great with this car to begin with .

Oh, and the EML hasn't even come on once today which i find odd!

Ive seen cheap generic parts break within 5-10 mins of fitting but then seen ones that lasted longer than the car, its just really hit and miss with them

Finally got my replacement ICV... I cheaped out and bought the £20 generic type (worth a gamble at that price for a new part). It looks, feels and weighs identical to the bosch ICV i removed, except it doesn't have the bosch logo stamped on it (has the same part number: 0132008602). Anyway, how long does it usually take for the ECU to reset after unhooking the battery? I've left it for about 2 hours so far...

Cheers

On the 16v engines unhooking the battery doesnt reset.the ecu that only worked on the old ecus

I didn't know that... Been looking for things to do for the last couple of hours . So is it just a case of swapping over the ICV and carry on driving as normal? Will the ECU clear itself when it picks up the new ICV?