Rear brakes locking up

teulk · Post by **teulk** » Sat Sep 10, 2005 11:50 am

I recently changed the rear shoes and cylinders on my 1.2 1995 corsa. Now under heavy ish braking the rear wheels lock. Would it be as simple as to back the adjusters off a bit or would there be abit more to it than that to sort it out...........its just a little bit scary braking in the wet and the back end starts to slide about, don\'t even need to use me handbrake for a \"handbrake turn\"

I also changed the front pads and discs same time as the rear shoes and cylinders.

corsacheater · Post by **corsacheater** » Sun Sep 11, 2005 7:17 pm

Had the same problem mate when i had my 14s. You dont need to do anything to the rear shoes etc, its because you havnt changed the front pads and discs aswell, the force you put on the pedal has a greater affect on the brand new rear shoes than the worn and low front pads and discs cos the rear shoes are spankers. Hope this helps.

Post by **Adam-D** » Sun Sep 11, 2005 8:48 pm

check the bias valve aswell
these are known for trouble

teulk · Post by **teulk** » Sun Sep 11, 2005 9:16 pm

[quote=\"corsacheater\"]Had the same problem mate when i had my 14s. You dont need to do anything to the rear shoes etc, its because you havnt changed the front pads and discs aswell, the force you put on the pedal has a greater affect on the brand new rear shoes than the worn and low front pads and discs cos the rear shoes are spankers. Hope this helps.

[/quote]

i changed the front pads and discs at the same time as i fitted new shoes to the rear (did say that in my original post

). I didnt however change the drums (really should have) and they are quite worn. Ref the bias valve what i need to check for and what would i need to do to it ?

Post by **Adam-D** » Sun Sep 11, 2005 9:20 pm

sit the car on a level surface slide under \"without a jack\"

undo the tension spring and sit it so its just there \"no slack\" but dont put it under tension \"streching it\"

then tighten the bolt up
check a haynes as it tell\'s you better than i can explain

teulk · Post by **teulk** » Sun Sep 11, 2005 9:28 pm

thanks for that info, much appreciated

teulk · Post by **teulk** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 9:36 pm

hmmmm i dont have the spring type i got the valves fitted to the pipes.........does this mean i need to renew them ?

BugsBunny · Post by **BugsBunny** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 2:09 pm

Hi,

I too, agree on the Bias Valve adjustment. There\'s big trouble if it transfers too much brake pressure to the rear wheels, specially in lowered cars.

I don\'t agree on changing the front pads or discs, it really has nothing to do with it.

Teulk >>> I would take this time to bleed the system, taking special care to block the bias valve from moving itself as the foot kicks the pedal throughout the process. Blocking the Bias Valve while bleeding the system, should guarantee it\'s proper function under future braking circumstances,.... naturally.

About the Auto Adjuster: since you\'ve changed rear pads, you must have shortened back the auto-adjuster. Nevertheless it will extend again to fill in the space created by the inside drum bed. To provoke this adjustment, you should turn the engine on, and kick the brake pedal several times, a click should be heard every time you kick it. Now the best part: for a quicker auto-adjustment you should once again block the BIAS valve from functioning, by placing a piece of wood between it\'s arm and the ground. Once the brake pedal feels stiff and precise, remove the piece of wood. It\'s ready to go

Best Regards

teulk · Post by **teulk** » Thu Oct 27, 2005 2:34 am

thanks for that but i have valves and not the spring type adjusters so i couldn\'t stick a piece of wood there if i wanted. I think the problems is that the drums are so worn ( so worn in fact that there is parts of the drum lining missing and really pitted) thus the wheels ar locking due to the inconsistency of the drums. I will be changing the drums and fitting new shoes shortly so i hope it cures the problem