Corsa B 1999 1.2 16V "1-7-11"

neil22 · Post by **neil22** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 7:33 pm

Does your engine numbers match with these X10XE X12XE numbers off the site? Also where you from bud? Have you tried carspares? They have an online shop i believe and normally quite cheap. It 'swho my shop deals with and i believe they deliver too

Jamie1991 · Post by **Jamie1991** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 7:50 pm

try autovaux.co.uk im buying all parts off there for my c20xe rebuild and there all genuine parts and not badly priced either

scorpiotn1 · Post by **scorpiotn1** » Thu Jan 12, 2012 8:19 pm

Cheers..

i got phone call shortley after work to say that the car had broke down twice on the way home.
What the hell is causing it to die like this. GF was saying it seems to happen when shes driving along then goes to slow down at a traffic light for example. its hard to describe what its doing as i havnt experianced it for myself. i have strange feeling it still may be the crankshaft sensor due to the crank oil seals needing replaced which explains the oil leak. but still dosnt explain why im loosing coolant gradualy.

neil22 · Post by **neil22** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 12:18 am

to me that deffo sounds like crankshaft sensor, customers always come into my shop describing this fault with corsa b, c and few other cars. problem is with out getting it pluggin in youll be just illiminating the fault from one switch at a time, i would go for the crankshaft sensor 1st. It could be that oil has got on the switch and messing it up,take it out clean it and go on same jurny as the misses did today, if it doesnt play up at ruffly the same area then it could be the dirt on it, hope that makes sence lol. i would seriously try cleaning before buying a new one though. just a thought mate lol

scorpiotn1 · Post by **scorpiotn1** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 12:55 am

neil22 wrote:to me that deffo sounds like crankshaft sensor, customers always come into my shop describing this fault with corsa b, c and few other cars. problem is with out getting it pluggin in youll be just illiminating the fault from one switch at a time, i would go for the crankshaft sensor 1st. It could be that oil has got on the switch and messing it up,take it out clean it and go on same jurny as the misses did today, if it doesnt play up at ruffly the same area then it could be the dirt on it, hope that makes sence lol. i would seriously try cleaning before buying a new one though. just a thought mate lol

well they are fairly cheap i think to replace, so if i cant get one sorted by 2mora im going to have to clean it up and hope it works. you mighta seen me posted on the help section on someone else topic on here with the same issue, keep a look out on it.

As for the rest of the problems with the wee car. me and partner are taking out a £6000 loan to buy a nice new used car for her so if we can get one for about £5000 then use another £700 for the insurance to pay for both cars for the year, i think i have her convinced that i get to spend the rest of it £300 on parts to do an engine overhaul during the spring/early summer, strip the engine down, clean up, new seals, paint etc. Kinda said how wouldnt be fair she getting the new car as her main and im stuck with the corsa that needs work done to it, that if i was to keep breaking down im screwed.

PS - we got AA cover for the year for xmas

i think il be using alot of there time lol

scorpiotn1 · Post by **scorpiotn1** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 2:47 am

Found a place near where i live that does engine head skimming, so i emailed them for a price and asked do they pressure test the head, check for cracks etc.
whats the average price to get that done ? i bet they will try and rip me off with something stupid ££££££

Jamie1991 · Post by **Jamie1991** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 10:02 am

skimming is usualy about £30 not sure bout pressure testing thou

scorpiotn1 · Post by **scorpiotn1** » Fri Jan 13, 2012 11:02 am

Jamie1991 wrote:skimming is usualy about £30 not sure bout pressure testing thou

Ahh, thats far cheaper than i thought, i thought it would be upwards of £50 / £100 +
I got an aftermarket crankshaft sensor for £21 in local auto supplies shop, its not genuine but for only £21 its worth buying.
Means i can remove the old genuine one, check it all over, try and clean it etc. Then if i keep running into problems i have the new one i can bang in.
Also means im not messing around with ordering parts, waiting for them to be posted etc etc as i said i want this fixed tonight.

scorpiotn1 · Post by **scorpiotn1** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:42 am

* Beware Large post *

Got the qoute for the head skim and pressure test, £25 each - total £50.

Also set about this evening replacing the crankshaft sensor, heres how it went.

Jacked the car up and used my mates axel stands that i took a lend of. got the passanger side in place at the end of the main beam i think. then done the other side but my L shape jack wouldnt lift the car high enough to get it in a good location, tried my best then tried to lower car onto the driver side axel stand. but the Jack and axel stand were right beside eachother so it was hard to turn the jack crank. this stoped me from lowering the car. i gave the car a good shake to see how secure it was, seemed stable untill i looked under and seen the passenger side axel stand was on 2 legs on an angle. Thought crap gota remove the jack and place under passanger side to get the stand out of that position, but everything was well wedged into place now. did my best to turn the crank but nothing happened. Untill...

The whole car slid off the passanger side axel stand and i thought, OMG !! in the end nothing was dammaged or ruptured, but the whole thing had freaked me out, what if i was under there at the time etc. in the end i had to use a scissor shaped jack to free the L Jack and axel stands from the wedged position. i never did like the L jack always seemed flimesy to me. when i removed the passanger side axel stand one the legs was bent from the weight of the car (sorry Colin il buy you a new one) Went into the house and had a cupa tea and something to eat to calm my nerves. then thought ok, the scissor jack is far better and lifts the car higher with it i can do it properley. sure enough with one axel stand on the driver main beam and the Jack raised just floating up as a fail safe i built up the courage to go under the car !! (my 1st time - wont be doing it anytime soon)

Jacks in a secure position

when i got under i seen alot of oil leakage never seen it from this angle before, it looked to be mainly coming from the drivers side, behind the lower timing chain wheels perhaps, id say the engine seals are well done and need replacing. prob why water is mixing into oil etc, would explain alot. this engine is gona need to be striped and all seals replaced and cleaned down for sure. god knows what the insides look like. (i also took this time to check for anything out of place which would explain the rattle sound but couldnt find anything)

What is this part ? as it didnt look in the best shape ( rear crank oil seal ? )

I set about locating the crankshaft sensor, which took me a while but found it due to the cable running down so wasnt too hard to locate. Its location on the other hand made it very hard to work with, i had to work with only my left hand mainly which slowed the whole process down big time. took forever to remove the clip, and the 1 bolt that holds it in place, then removed the sensor which got stuck. some WD-40 and a bit of a wiggle and i got it out. It was covered in oil and the tip was dirty / oil covered. i thought best to just replace with the new part. I did my best to clean the oil inside the hole.

Old part was coverd in oil

I really hope i didnt mess anything up as i read in the Haynes theres an adjuster tool etc cause the sensor tip has to be a certain distance etc ?? i might have moved something when i placed a finger in to check for oil, felt like a free flowing bit of metal tubing. Didnt mess around with it much so came out to inspect old sensor with the new. old was very dirty and didnt have a seal at th mid section, the metal tip was flush with the plastic. the aftermarket was clean, had a rubber seal at the top and the metal tip was raised. it gave me the impression that the old part was worn down somehow.

New part top

Old part top

As it had a rubber seal and the difficult area to work in, i did my best to push it in and gave a bit of twist, but in the end i put the bolt on, and found just enough thread to catch it, hand tightened then screwed it home, this pulled the rest of the seal into position. i hope !!

re-connected everything then went to start car and no responce, heart skiped a beat cuase wasnt evening geting electrics, DOH ! forgot to connect battery. car started up as it did even with the old part. engine was finding its reving point as the bat was dissconected etc. it was a very frosty night and good bita frost ice on all windows etc. i held revs at 2000 and all seemed dead on. As it was late, dark and frosty cold i thought not going to bother test driving it just to perhaps breakdown. so i parked it in the corner and il check on it 2mora morning.

Im concered that i might have un-adjusted something, how easy would it be to mess up replaceing this part ?

New vrs Old - genuie vrs aftermarket

the leaking oil around the timing belt has also got me concered, i knew i wanted to save up and over haul the engine spring/summer but i might have to do it sooner ! i think it will be worth the £50 to get it skimmed and pressure tested, hopefully they do a proper job and check for cracks etc. Its a dissapointing feeling when you know the engine isnt running right, i look forward to opening it up and giving it a good service.

neil22 · Post by **neil22** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:37 pm

Just a quick n mate the AA wont keep coming out for same fault lol they do it a couple of times and then say if you dont get it fixed they charge you to come out.. I gotta get europien break down for the nurburgring lol

scorpiotn1 · Post by **scorpiotn1** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 6:53 pm

neil22 wrote:Just a quick n mate the AA wont keep coming out for same fault lol they do it a couple of times and then say if you dont get it fixed they charge you to come out.. I gotta get europien break down for the nurburgring lol

What did you mean "just a quick n ..." with the work I done last night I tested the car and it didn't break down / cut out on me. The bad oil coming out on the timing belt area has me concerned. I wana perhaps get it tempory fixed and when I save up more do the overhaul. Moneys becoming tight now tho as I'm looking into buying Toyota auris which is coming in at £6500. For 16000 miles 2008 1.4 petrol alot of features etc il post some pics and specs later.

neil22 · Post by **neil22** » Sat Jan 14, 2012 11:00 pm

scorpiotn1 wrote:
neil22 wrote:Just a quick n mate the AA wont keep coming out for same fault lol they do it a couple of times and then say if you dont get it fixed they charge you to come out.. I gotta get europien break down for the nurburgring lol
What did you mean "just a quick n ..." with the work I done last night I tested the car and it didn't break down / cut out on me. The bad oil coming out on the timing belt area has me concerned. I wana perhaps get it tempory fixed and when I save up more do the overhaul. Moneys becoming tight now tho as I'm looking into buying Toyota auris which is coming in at £6500. For 16000 miles 2008 1.4 petrol alot of features etc il post some pics and specs later.

i ment just a quick message lol as in i wouldnt take much of your time lol.. as for your loan idea get the misses an 04 fiesta in nice condition lol nice to drive too for a couple grand and thn spend more on corsa lol

scorpiotn1 · Post by **scorpiotn1** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 12:46 am

Ive been creating a price and parts list in Excel document, for a engine overhaul ive estimated a price close to £250/£300

Head pressure test - £25
Head Skimm - £25
Timing kit - £50
head gasket kit - £50
Clutch kit - £40
Crank oil seals - £20
Paint - £20 ( 4x spray cans 500ml each )
Oil (5 liters) - £20
Coolant - ?
Oil sump gasket - ?
Piston Rings - ?
Big End bearings - ?

I wont know untill i open the engine up if the oil pump and water pump would need replaced, im thinking no due to have only done 55,000 miles. Looking at the list can anyone suggest anything i might have missed or anything else that would be best replaced while the engine is striped down ?

scorpiotn1 · Post by **scorpiotn1** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 3:46 am

Been looking into insurance

To insure the corsa as myself as main driver and partner as 2nd.
To insure the Toytoa as partner as main driver and myself as 2nd.

works out to be a total of just over £800 per year, fully comp.

Heres some info on the toyota auris...

2008 Toyota Auris 1.4 TR - Petrol
16000 miles
5 Door
£6500

Hoping to come to some sort of final outcome this week. Heads wreaked !!

Jamie1991 · Post by **Jamie1991** » Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:36 am

if your doing full rebuild then will need all gaskets for bottom end, like sump, oil pump, water pump etc..
and vauxhall also recommend replacing head bolts, main bearing bolts and big end bolts, they quoted me £65 for main and big end bolts

so im just going to replace head bolts as there cheap and re-use the main and big end bolts

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